Street foodReview
The halwa puri queue starts at 7 on Sundays
Why a small stall near the old market sells out before 10, and what to order when you get there.
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Ten places for a family dinner under budget
Big tables, quick service and food the kids will eat. All made-up places in this sample, with real tips.
Kitchen notesStory
Why your spices taste flat, and how to fix it
Old spices, wrong storage and too little heat. Three fixes that cost nothing.
Daal chawal for people who think they do not like daal
Yellow moong, a proper tarka and one squeeze of lemon. Comfort food that takes 25 minutes.
Street foodReview
Gol gappay ranked by the water, not the shell
Five carts, one rule: the water decides everything. Our notes after a long evening.
Where to get a proper breakfast on a weekday
Paratha rolls, omelettes and doodh patti before 9 am, near offices and colleges.
Five pans that do most of the work
You do not need a full set. A karahi, a tawa and three more will cover almost everything.
Aloo paratha that does not tear
The secret is cold filling, soft dough and a little patience while rolling.
Bun kebab, the late-night classic
A soft bun, a daal-and-egg patty and green chutney. Three stalls that still do it properly.
A food walk through the old city
Seven stops, three hours and one very full stomach. Start hungry and wear comfortable shoes.
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