
Bun kebab, the late-night classic
A soft bun, a daal-and-egg patty and green chutney. Three stalls that still do it properly.
Stalls, carts and dhabas worth the queue in Peshawar.

A soft bun, a daal-and-egg patty and green chutney. Three stalls that still do it properly.

Brain, nalli or plain? How to order nihari, and why you should go early.

Street foodStory
Charred over coals, rubbed with lemon and chilli salt. Where to find the best ones this season.

A soft bun, a daal-and-egg patty and green chutney. Three stalls that still do it properly.

Seven stops, three hours and one very full stomach. Start hungry and wear comfortable shoes.

Kitchen notesStory
A jar of water, a loose bag and the right shelf in the fridge.

Milk, rice, sugar and time. Cardamom and a few pistachios if you are feeling generous.

Brain, nalli or plain? How to order nihari, and why you should go early.

Food guidesStory
We compared plate prices at twenty places. Here is what you pay for, and where the extra goes.

A heavy pot on the stove works surprisingly well. Here is the method we use.

Make thirty on Sunday, eat them all month. Here is how to keep them from falling apart.

Street foodStory
Charred over coals, rubbed with lemon and chilli salt. Where to find the best ones this season.

For the first hour of any road trip, these are the places that make tea the way it should be.
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