
Cities & heritageItinerary
48 hours in the walled city
Gates, havelis, a mosque at sunset and food at every corner. A weekend plan that works on foot.

Cities & heritageItinerary
Gates, havelis, a mosque at sunset and food at every corner. A weekend plan that works on foot.

Hot days, cold nights and more stars than you have ever seen.

Trip planningTips
Transport, stays, food and the 15 percent you will forget. A simple sheet you can copy.

The northDiary
We camped by a high lake to see it at first light. Here is what we wish we had packed.

A day trip to an old fort a few hours from the city, with a riverside stop on the way back.

Quieter coves along the coast, and how to visit them safely.

Trip planningTips
Layers, not volume. What to pack when the weather changes every few hours.

The northTips
Road conditions, fuel stops, landslides and why you should never drive after dark.

A respectful guide to visiting places of worship as a traveller.

Desert & coastItinerary
Four days through the southern districts, with notes on roads, stays and heat.
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