Five pans that do most of the work
You do not need a full set. A karahi, a tawa and three more will cover almost everything.
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Aloo paratha that does not tear
The secret is cold filling, soft dough and a little patience while rolling.
Bun kebab, the late-night classic
A soft bun, a daal-and-egg patty and green chutney. Three stalls that still do it properly.
A food walk through the old city
Seven stops, three hours and one very full stomach. Start hungry and wear comfortable shoes.
Kitchen notesStory
How to keep coriander fresh for two weeks
A jar of water, a loose bag and the right shelf in the fridge.
Rice kheer, slow and simple
Milk, rice, sugar and time. Cardamom and a few pistachios if you are feeling generous.
A short guide to nihari breakfasts
Brain, nalli or plain? How to order nihari, and why you should go early.
Food guidesStory
What a good biryani should cost in 2026
We compared plate prices at twenty places. Here is what you pay for, and where the extra goes.
Baking bread at home without an oven
A heavy pot on the stove works surprisingly well. Here is the method we use.
Shami kebabs to freeze for busy weeks
Make thirty on Sunday, eat them all month. Here is how to keep them from falling apart.
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